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Great video mate, I’ve watched loads of these hip/jack rafter vids, yours was the easiest to follow and understand 👍🏼👍🏼

Excellent video

I used to fit latches this way but then invested in a Sauber lock mortising jig, never looked back quick and accurate even does the forend recess. Saves so much time on mortice locks and tubular latches.

Brilliant idea, thank you

What size are the roof rafters please im going to see If I can build this on a budget and just buy the materials from a timber yard lol

great video everything you said makes perfect sense 3 mil off makes a huge difference on the other end , and its not the end of the world 😂 something site manager would say

I think we dont rely by calculation and it should be verified by actual measurements. Many factors contributed of misfits of hips and others.

Just a thought, I might be wrong, but could you not just let that wall plate extend past the distance that you need and pitch the hip as normal off the corner?

I learned a lot from this brilliant video. Thank you, Tall carpenter

This video is fantastic, I love the tried and true methods that have been handed down through the years. Would you happen to have a video on how you calculate the rafters that attach to the hip rafters? There are two calculations that have to be taken into account, where the rafter connects to the hip, before the bird's mouth can be cut. These give me a lot of problems. They are never quite as flush as I need them to be for a good job.

I have to fix a studwork header plate to an RSJ, what method is best for a DiYer please?

Del I love you, will you be my Dad please. 😊

Very helpful & very good work.

Pulling the hip rafters off the corners was explained very well but not sure why that needed to happen in the first place. Had to do this several times it used to drive me crazy because your expected to do this for the same money as a traditional hip and it does mess up everything, plumb cuts,side cuts, batten's , cappings, etc. and quite frankly it's a sows ear from start to finish. I can understand it for example if a chimney was interfering with the normal run of hip or valley and couldn't be moved but otherwise don't go off the roofing square

Clear as mud thx

Del we use to nogg out cieling then gyp rock cieling then put stud work up what do you think off that method

Such a simple idea, would save me the faff of catching the appliance on the metal corner braces I normally use to hold the shelf up. Thanks for sharing 👌

very neat job

How freakin tall are you geez!?

watched a few of these carpentry videos on the tube yours has to be the best in my book del you make it easy to understand well explained fantastic setting out of video and roof

Hi I know this video is two years ago but where will I find part two 😊

The clearest most precise explanation out there

We always under cut the skirting in small corners like that rather than the pointless bit of scotia

The 36v makita rail/ plunge saw is very good aswell

Great job mate looks wicked

Thanks buddy iv just got myself some love ya video u make me laugh

Rip the whole thing out and put your corner newels in properly. Add a short return to the handrail and attach the newel at the top of the stairs.

I am in the process of replacing all the internal doors in my house, I was dreading the latch but this video is unbelievably helpful, so informative but also so straightforward. Thank you!!

Thanks

I've fitted magnet kitchens for years in my experience I've hung rows and rows of wall units on platerboard fixings and by the time they are all hung and fixed together they are surprisingly stong as it sort of form one solid block, but always good practice to get at least to or three solid fixings too

Nice tip 👍🏽. Appreciate it.

Bravo ! Excellent work

The shadow was not noticeable for me 😊

ruclips.net/video/jLd9a1fRX6k/видео.htmlsi=7NAiB4w-yUm1jMZZ❤

My builder has told me we can't have different hight wall plates and that he needs to follow the hight of the crack beams which now means my facia boards not lining with my nioughborys house! And

Going to do this for my client

Thanks for the video. What do you do if the floor is crooked?

FJB

Now thats a master craftsman if ive ever seen one

Great ❤

I do similar but I put pocket hole screws in the spacers rather than resting on nails. The screws can help pull the lining square too but I like your way too

Great video! Glad to see that you're impressed with the 'new kid' on the block 😁

Please don’t say “It’s a building, after all”….. you know what ‘the planning’ are like…

Thank you, great tip. Especially for thermalite style blocks.

Great video for setting out, plus everyone makes mistakes and you're not afraid to show it. You didn't show us how you plum the top plate of the stud wall...

I dont really understand the toe in. I get that it can reduce tear out from the rear of the blade, but ive found it sort of makes the initial shallow pass useless. As when you make a deeper cut, the front of the blade takes off more material anyway, as opposed to the centre of the blade on the shallow cut. Also, if following the recommendation of having the teeth slightly coming through the other side when cutting, the top of the material is being cut by the front of the blade whereas the bottom of the material is being cut by the center of the blade. It must throw it out of square ever so slightly surely?

Do you make the gate 10 or 20mm narrower than the gap? Or wat clearance do you use? Thanks

Nice one mate, just wondered why you drilled holes for the screws first instead of just screwing straight through? Dont think those boards would split/crack at all.. Cheers

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